Frequently Asked Questions


Select any of the following questions / links for answers.

  • Q: How soon could you have a tech out to my home?

    A: Most often we are able to schedule a time for a tech to come to your home within the same week that you call. This does vary depending on the amount of time it would take to complete the job.

  • Q: How much do you charge an hour?

    A: Truitt Electric, LLC. does not have an hourly rate because we have chosen to not price jobs by the hour. Instead we use a standardized pricing guide which means that there is a specific cost associated with each individual job type. When your tech arrives to your home he will be able to share this pricing guide with you so you can see exactly where the numbers are coming from. Once he gives you the quoted price for this job, that number is concrete. There will no surprises or hidden fees and in the case that the job takes longer than expected. You won't be charged a penny more. We believe this is a more fair and honest way to do business.

  • Q: Do you offer financing?

    A: Yes! We understand that money can be tight and electrical issues in your home can happen unexpectedly. This is why Truitt Electric, LLC. has paired with Loan Hero to be able to offer our customers a flexible payment option.

  • Q: What is GFCI outlet?

    A: A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is a device that shuts off an electric power circuit when it detects that current is flowing along an unintended path, such as through water or a person. Under normal conditions the current returning to the power supply in a 2 wire circuit will be equal to the current leaving the power supply.  More information can be found here: http://ecmweb.com/basics/how-gfcis-work

  • Q: What areas should be GFCI protected?

    A: The National Electrical Codes requires GFCI protection for any outlet in the following areas.


    • Kitchen counter tops
    • Bathrooms
    • Garages
    • Crawl spaces
    • Exterior receptacles
    • Unfinished basements
    • Boat house
    • Any receptacle within 6 ft of a sink
  • Q: What is an arc fault breaker?

    A: An Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) is a type of duplex receptacle or circuit breaker that breaks the circuit when it detects a dangerous electrical arc in order to prevent electrical fires. A normal breaker will often not trip from an arc since the current generated does not exceed the amp rating of the breaker. Arc fault breakers are designed to arcing conditions.

  • Q: How is an arc fault breaker helpful?

    A: An Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) is a type of duplex receptacle or circuit breaker that breaks the circuit when it detects a dangerous electrical arc in order to prevent electrical fires. A normal breaker will often not trip from an arc since the current generated does not exceed the amp rating of the breaker. Arc fault breakers are designed to arcing conditions.


    More information - http://www.afcisafety.org/qa.html


    More information - http://ecmweb.com/content/basics-arc-fault-protection


  • Q: Where is arc fault protection required?

    A: Currently in Tennessee, all devices in bedrooms are required to have arc fault protection.


  • Q: My smoke detector keeps chirping, what does this mean?


    1. An intermittent chirp is probably an indication of a defective smoke detector.
    2. A consistent chirp is probably an indication of a low battery condition and the smoke detector requires a new battery.
  • Q: Why do my bulbs burn out so often?


    1. Low voltage rating of bulbs. Bulbs are typically rated for either 120 volts or 130 volts, bulbs rated at 120 volt will burn out more often due to power surges.
    2. Larger wattage bulbs, which cause excessive heat build-up shorting the life of the bulb.
    3. Power Surges.
    4. Excessive vibration. Incandescent fixtures have a thin filament in the bulb and excessive vibration can shorten the life of the filament.
    5. High voltage in the home. Homes are supposed to receive 120/240 volts from utility company, but this is not always the case. It is not uncommon for a home to receive 125/250 volts from utility company which will result in a shorter lifespan for bulbs.
  • Q: Why does my recess can cycle on and off?

    A: You most likely have a bulb installed that is larger than the rating of the can. Modern Recess Cans are rated for a maximum wattage bulb and are equipped with a thermal device that does not allow a bulb larger than that rating. If a larger wattage bulb is used, as the excess heat builds up, the thermal device will shut the can off until it cools. This is a safety device to protect your home against fire.


    Also, there may be insulation packed around the recessed light-- not letting the heat dissipate and in return tripping the thermal device. After the recessed light cools down, it will cycle back on.

  • Q: When my air conditioner cycles on, I notice my lights dim. Is this normal?

    A: Yes. This is a common occurrence when large motor/compressor loads start. These devices cause a minor momentary voltage drop, demonstrating itself as the blinking in your lights. This has no negative effect on the electrical equipment within your house.

  • Q: What does it mean when my fluorescent lights are flickering or cycling on and off?

    A: Flickering may indicate impending bulb failure, minor power fluctuation, and/or improperly installed bulbs. Cycling on and off is usually a clear indication of ballast and/or bulb failure. It is recommended when replacing a ballast to replace bulbs as well.

  • Q: How can I plug a four prong dryer or range into a three prong outlet?

    A: According to the NEC [National Electrical Code], it is now required to isolate the neutral conductor from the appliance frame or chassis. It used to be allowable to use the neutral as a grounding means by incorporating a link between the neutral and the chassis. The problem with this is that, should the neutral become "open" at some point, the chassis or frame then becomes energized! The answer to this safety issue was to require a separate grounding conductor in the cable feeding the appliance. The NEC allows the replacement of the new four prong cord with a three prong cord for appliance replacements in existing installations only! It is then required, when the cord is thusly replaced, to establish the frame grounding link from the chassis to the neutral.

  • Q: My dimmer switch is hot, is this normal?

    A: This is the metal plate on the front of the switch. This heat in turn is transferred to the switch cover plate. In most cases, it is not noticeable when the dimmer switch is driving a single bulb or a load of 100 watts or so. The heat does become more noticeable when the wattage of the load gets above 300. Underwriter's Laboratory (U.L.) allows a maximum operation temperature of 195°F for dimmer switches. But the average dimmer operates much lower, at approximately 140°F.


    Most dimmers are rated for 600 watts. However, dimmers come equipped with removable tabs on the side, that if removed lower the wattage rating of the dimmer to typically 500 watts if one side is removed, and 400 watts if both sides are removed.


    If your dimmer is hot to the touch the load on the dimmer may be exceeding the wattage rating of the dimmer. As a test you can count the number of bulbs on the dimmer and multiply this by the wattage of the light bulbs if it exceeds 400 watts then the load may be exceeding the capacity of the dimmer and you will need to verify the rating of the dimmer.

Truitt Electric is a BBB Accredited Electrician in Knoxville, TN
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Power your home or business with an electrician you can trust. Truitt Electric, LLC. in Knoxville, Tennessee, provides high quality, professional electrical services. You can count on us and our work, every time. Our wiring is safe and reliable.


Family-Owned & Operated • Home-Grown in Knoxville

10446 Cogdill Road, Suite A, Knoxville, TN 37932


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Servicing Knoxville, Lenoir City, Maryville, Loudon, Alcoa, Oak Ridge

and Knox, Blount, Anderson and Surrounding Counties